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Birding The Silk Road

Leaving Areni

Today was the day to say goodbye to the Areni Wine Cellar B&B. After breakfast on the terrace we packed up and paid our bills to Anna. It is an excellent base for exploring both the immediate area and the Vedi/Armah region. You can find my review, along with other positive comments on Trip Advisor.

Much of our route to the Dilijan region would be along the Silk Road. Initally we would head for the Selim pass then drop down to the western shore of Lake Seven. The at north-west we would diverge from the Silk Road (which carries on to Yerevan) and drive in the direction of Dilijan.

Selim Pass

Just over an hour after leaving Areni we reached the top of the Selim Pass. We parked just north of the Caravanserai, the traditional resting place for medieval travellers. Walking out onto the mountain pasture under grey skies we were serenaded by Skylarks. Meadow Pipits and Whinchats were also very much in evidence.

Whinchat (Saxicola rubetra)

Overhead a few Long-legged Buzzards patrolled and a late party of Honey Buzzards hurried north.

In these open expanses there was no habitat that would favour our target species – Radde’s Accentor. We drove about 1 km further north and explored another area of pasture criss-crossed by ditches. Here at >2000 m we kicked out a Great Snipe. Our disbelief meant that we didn’t really notice where it landed and after 20 minuted abandoned our search.

Continuing along the road we dropped into a wide valley and could see a settlement to our right. The farm building and dry stone walls tallied with the descriptions from some trip reports.

A Good Deed

Meeting Duncan LSE Requestf or Help

After this excitement we said our goodbyes to Duncan who naturally was keen to press on Noravank. Not least as he already had seen Radde’s Accentor on Mount Aragat. We drove a short distance upstream and parked. First bird we saw on a dry stone wall on the far side of the stream was a Bluethroat of teh Caucasian subspecies luristanica. Crossing the stream we asked the owner if he minded us birding his property and he waved us on.

If Armash was the fantasy fish pond then Selim was a surreal sweetieshop stocked with desirable WP taxa.

Above Armash

Quick Geography Lesson

Another early start with a packed breakfast saw us heading North from Areni. Our destination was the the range of arid hills that lie East of and above Armash. Previous reports are inconsistent in the way they name the three principle sites. The poor positioning of the eBird hotspot pins further confuses matters. The table below along with my annotated map and the subheadings in this post may offer some clarity.

Vedi Springs

I used a combination of eBird and Google Maps to navigate us to this site. However, in turns out that the eBird coordinates are at the entrance to the wadi, by a settlement with some running water. We walked across a stony plain either side of the water course but frankly saw very little in breezy overcast conditions. Just a few Isabelline Wheatears and Greater Short-toed Larks. Turns out that we should of started much further up the wadi – see Armash revisited.

Isabelline Wheatear (Oenanthe)

As we returned to the car Graham picked up a large falcon terrorising a distant flock of Rosy Starlings. No time to get images but good enought views to determine it was a Saker (WP #74x). We hung around for a bit, but it did not reappear. Driving out of the wadi a monochrome wheatear with a complete back tail-bar flew across the road – Finsch’s Wheatear

Finsch’s Wheatear

With the warming sun raptors became more active and a mixed flock of vultures; Lammergier, Egyptian and Black appeared overhead. My ebird checklist is here.

Vedi Hills

It was getting on for mid-morning by the time we reached this steep sided gorge with running water. Here we found many more Finsch’s Wheatear and Eastern Rock Nuthatch – both species with recently fledged young. Other than that the only obviously new species was Little Ringed Plover. Moreover as the morning wore on the canyon was filling up with day trippers. May 9th is Victory Day in Armenia, a national holiday, and we were birding a popular picnic spot!

Finsch’s Wheatear

Leaving the gorge there were a number of Black-headed Buntings singing in the field margins. All in all somewhat underwhelming ,and not a hint of Grey-necked Bunting or Upcher’s Warbler. My eBird checklist is here.

It is easy to see why there are historic records of Mongolian Finch from both this site and Vedi Springs. A combination of accessible drinking water in high altitude desert. There are plenty of recent records from nearby Türkiye, but the species has not been seen in the Vedi area since 2015. Interestingly Duncan Bulling (see Birding The Silk Road) had drinking Desert Finches a few days later. Again we should almost of certainly of continued deeper into the habitat.

Oorts Gorge

This site lies a little further South and directly overlooks Armash Fish Ponds. It is altogether rougher and more remote . Once we had figured out the 4WD settting the Toyota handled the difficult, and at times steep, track with ease. We drove as far as Surb Nshan Church (a cave) which is a traditional site for Pale Rock Sparrow. The drive Continuing on foot we checked out a Persian Wheatear site. Sadly we saw neither species – it was that kind of day. Special mention goes to a hepatic phase Cuckoo that Graham found. This is a form neither of us had seen before and one of the highlights of the trip.

Rufous phase Cuckoo (Cucuclus cuculus)

The drive back to the main road gave us views that allowed us to appreciate the scale Armash Fish Ponds. As we dropped down to

The Areni Region

A White Knuckle Ride

Next morning our alarms went off a stupid o’clock and we crept downstairs to collect packed breakfasts from Anna’s kitchen. At 6 am, bang on cue, a white Lada Niva pulled up outside the B&B. By arrangement out stepped two camo clad rangers from the Arpa Protected Landscape. They would take us up nearby Mount Gdnasar in search ofCaspian Snowcock. This is one of several species found in Armenia that I had not seen since an epic trip around Türkyie in 1986. Other hold outs from that tour include Bimaculated Lark, Grey-necked Bunting, Radde’s Accentor and Eastern Rock Nuthatch.

Driving North out of the village we stayed on the main road for a few km before turning East towards the mountains. The initial ascent was on tarmac, but we soon turned off onto a dirt road. One that inevitably got rougher and steeper as we gained height.

The drive

After 30 minutes or so our driver veered sharply off piste to crest a grassy ridge facing some vertical crags. We had arrived on-site!

Snowcock!

Our guides proved not only to be excellent drivers, but also top observers. It was cool when we arrived, but as the sun got up a Snowcock started to call. We were struggling but the guides soon located it and got all our scopes on it. Way too distant for conventional photography I recorded some dodgy video.

Caspian Snowcock

There was not much else going birdwise and sadly we saw neither Brown Bear or Bezoar. Leopard, and a few do persist in this wild and remote landscape, was never really on the cards. So happy with our Snowcock we decided to return to Areni. The lower slopes were warming up and appeared quite birdy but our time with the rangers was up. Returning to Areni we paid the agreed fee and despite the lack of common language thanked them for a wonderful experience.

Snowcock safely UTB!
Noravank Monastery

Back at the B&B we took a quick break and loaded our gear into the Toyota. Our next destination, Noravank Monastery, is a newish site for Persian Wheatear. Although not rare globally this species is tricky to see in the WP. Many catch up with it wintering in Kuwait. Alternatively small numbers breed in southern Armenia or in neighbouring Nakhchivan, a landlocked enclave of Azerbaijan. The latter is hard to access and most Armenian records of Persian Wheatear are from the southern border with Iran. Hence a reliable site in the Areni region, where acccording to eBird they were already present in 2023, was very welcome.

Noravank lies at the head of a steep sided gorge just a short drive on good roads from our accomodation . There is ample car-parking, but like Khor Virap it is on the main tourist circuit and gets busy. We made two visits, mid-morning and late-afternoon; both had their moments! Of interest to the toursits are the well preserved monastery buildings which date back to the 13th century. From a birding perspective most of the action is on the stony slopes beyond the perimeter wall.

There we easily found several pairs of Eastern Black-eared Wheatear and some flightly flocks of Red-fronted Serin.

Eastern Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe melanoleuca)
Red-fronted Serin (Serinus pusillus)
A Mad Scramble!

Overhead were Red-billed Choughs and Crag Martins which appeared to be nesting in the monestary buidings.

Crag Martin (Ptyonoprogne rupestris)

Calling from the slopes we heard, and eventually saw, Blue Rock Thrush and Eastern Rock Nuthatch. This supersized, and very loud Nuthatch, was another of the species I had not seen since 1986.

Whilst this was quality birding there was no sign of the star turn. Leaving Gramham to photograph Eastern Black-eared Wheatear I slowly started to climb the scree covered slope towards the cliffs. The terrain was uncertain and it took me some twenty minutes to reach the big boulders at the base of the cliffs. Here I heard an unfamilar song not far away. Arms out-stretched and holding on tight to keep my footing I peered over the top of a big rock. A small bird with a red tail jumped up on top of some nearby boulders – Persian Wheatear (WP #743). Bollocks! If I let go to use my camera I would take a big tumble! Gingerly I worked my way to a more stable position, but the birds saw me and flew up to the high cliffs.

I managed to raise Graham on WhatsApp (the 4G network is generally good throughout Armenia). Rather than follow in my footsteps I suggested an alternative and possibly easier route. Unfortunately by the time he arrived the wheatears had completely disappeared. The site was now very busy and we returned to town to regroup. This proved to be inspired. As we got out the car by the B&B and looked up there was a Lammergier over our heads.

Lammergier (Gypaetus barbatus)
Take Two!

We returned later in the day. After another photoshoot with an obliging Black-eared Wheatear we clambered up the scree, but got seperated.

The Persian Wheatears responded to my tape in the area of the lower boulders. I could not see them! Fortunately Graham could and manged some record shots. Before I could join him they headed off to the high crags. More bollocks! Unfortunately the quickest route back to the car was the way we came and it was much harder going down. My very slow descent was more about caution than age (honest). But on reflection it was a huge mistake not to have packed a walking pole – enough said!

Graham making a rapid(ish) descent to the car park

Not entirely satisfactory but we had both seen and heard Persian Wheatear. At this point we decided to call it a day and returned to the B&B. There, after a restorative shower we enjoyed another of Anna’s excellent home cooked dinners. Not to mention a glass of wine from the family cellar, Unfortunately Anna’s husband seemed a touch disappointed that we sign up for a tasting of his entire range. But that could have got very messy – and we had another long day ahead of us.

Return to the Caucasus

Armenia at last

Despite three trips to Georgia since 2014 I had not been able to return to the Caucasus since the pandemic. Spring 2023 represented the first opportunity for Graham and I to resurrect our trip to Armenia that fell victim to Covid in 2020.  So it was with high anticipation that we departed LHR for Paris to catch a connecting flight to Yerevan.  We flew Air France as the flight arrived in the evening – flights with other carriers arrive in the very early morning!

Clear of passport control and customs Graham changed money whilst I fended off the many taxi scammers. A brief call to our hotel brought a lift and five minutes later we were  settling into the comfortable Kesabella Touristic House (kesabella@hotmail.com). After a simple al fresco evening meal and a welcome beer we retired for the night.

A good breakfast preceded the delivery of our hire car at the agreed time by local rental company CaraVan. We opted for an AWD Toyota Fortuner which proved to be a wise move. It was fine if a touch underpowered and less well specifed than the Landcruisers we drove in Kuwait. Strangely the pre-departure briefing by the agent focussed on a complimentary brolly rather than how to engage AWD! Our first destination was an area adjacent to the ancient monastery of Khor Virap about 40 km South of Yerevan..

Khor Virap
Khor Virap from the approach road; A cloud covered Mount Ararat can be seen in the back left of the image.

The monastery lies on one of a series of low hills close to the border with Türkiye and is quite the tourist trap.  Parking next to the cemetary we circumvented the entrance and headed South towards a small reedbed just across the border.  White Storks fed in the small fields and a few Steppe Buzzards drifted over us. Over the border a lone Montagu’s Harrier made its way north agains the snowy slopes of Mount Ararat.  Significantly the area of scrub between  the footpath and the border fence held good numbers of Ménétries Warbler.  A new species for Graham which, with a little bit of patience, showed very well.

The birds in Armenia are of the nominate race Sylvia mystacea mystacea. These have a dull dusky pink suffusion to the breast and throat best seen in the right hand image.

Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio)

Other species in this area included Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin, Black-headed Bunting and both Lesser Grey and Red-backed Shrikes.

You can find my eBird checklist here.

Fantasy Fish Ponds

About 25 km South of Khor Virap lies one of the iconic WP birding destinations, Armash Fish Ponds.  These privately owned fishponds cover ca 1,500 ha are not a nature reserve despite being their designation as an IBA by Birdlife International.  The importance of Armash FP for breeding and migrating waterbirds is well understood, as is the potential for ecotourism.  For example a recently opened lodge (whihc we did not know about), makes it possible for birders to stay on site. 

Access is strictly by permit which is available in advance, for a small fee from Karen Aghababyan. Karen is the leading field ornithologist in Armenia and was a great source of help guidance throughtout our trip.

We briefly visited a Verdi supermarket to pick up some lunch before presenting ourself at the gate.  After a short Soviet era administrative pause the gatekeeper waved us through. And just beyond the entrance we found an entrancing colony of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters. 

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater (Merops persicus)

Driving slowly along the bunds between the ponds we encountered good numbers of herons and Pygmy Comorants in flight. Whilst White-winged Black Terns seemed to be everywhere.

Small herons such as Squacco and Black-crwoned Night Heron were abundant in the many reed-filled ditches.

Gone with the wind!

The birds continued to come thick and fast. Larger passerines such as Roller and Rufous-tailed Bush-robin were not hard to find.

However, the strong breeze was keeping any Acrocephalus warblers including the much desired Paddyfield Warbler low in the reeds. Despite Graham’s excellent ear we simply could not convince ourselves we were hearing Paddyfields amongst the familar Reed Warbler cacophony. Only a few Great Reed Warblers were robust enough to brave the wind.

Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus)

There were however thousands of Sand Martins and we did locate a few flocks of flava wagtails. We were pleased to pick out migrant Grey-headed (ssp thunbergi) and Blue-headed (ssp flava) amongst the local Black-headed (ssp feldegg). I hoped that we might see another blue-headed form, Syke’s Wagtail (ssp beema), en route to SE Russia. However I am content that only saw ssp flava. Pro flava features include a yellow chin, no sub-ocular mark, dark ear coverts and necklace of dark spots.

Black-headed Wagtail (Motacilla flava feldegg)
Where are the waders?

Apart from a couple of flocks of Grey Plover in flight we saw very few waders. Unfortunately there were no partially drained fish ponds to provide suitable habitat. The levels in the ponds varies from year to year and we were just unlucky. But the lack of waders and hidden Acros meant that we would return later in the trip. On our way back to the gate we did find another group of ponds favoured by some White-tailed Lapwings. A nearby ditch held a few larger waders – but it was a bit thin.

White-tailed Lapwing (Vanelllus leucurus)
The Long Way Home

The evening was drawing in and tiredness was catching up with both of us. Our hotel was about 80 minutes drive away. But checking Google Maps the route given was closer to 2.5 hours drive via a circuitous route. Graham took the wheel and negotiated a difficult drive over a twisty potholed made harder by the local truck drivers. But why the detour? It turns out that the fastest route to Areni goes throught the village of Karki, which is marked on maps as an eclave of Azerbaijan. Google Maps perceives this as a need to cross two international borders and adds time. In reality Karki is administered by Armenia and the main North/South road passes through with no delay. This unforced error left us both frazzled and to arrive late at the charming Areni Wine Cellar B&B. Fortunately our lovely host Anna was unfazed by this and served us a delicious evening meal on her terrace.

And if only…

It seems churlish to look back at such an outstanding day (eBird checklist here) with regret. But if the lack of waders was unfortunate, missing Paddyfield Warbler was unforgivable. What could we have done better? Needing to organise permits in advance makes it hard to work around the weather. That said being on site in the early morning might of have helped with the warblers and offered better light for photography. Most of all I wonder if it was wise to tackle such a large diverse site on day one of a trip? Some useful lessons for future trips.

Twixmas in Morocco – Oukaimeden

I conceived this rather ambitious short birding trip with the aim of seeing four new Western Palearctic species in three days. For me it represented three firsts.  This was my first solo trip overseas since turning 60, since the start of the C-19 pandemic and since cancer surgery. And it nearly didn’t happen.  The journey from Trevarth to Gatwick took nearly eight hours.  Fortunately I got from the long stay car park to the gate in just 21 minutes – three minutes before it closed!

The flight to Marrakech was uneventful. Entry formalities complete I met my driver who took me to the nearby Riad L’aeroport.  I enjoyed a good night’s sleep and a fine breakfast in this spotless and comfortable hotel. Fully recovered I returned to the airport to pick up my hire car and start the 1.5 hour drive to Oukaimeden.

Stay on the Grass

Ouakimeden is a ski resort in the High Atlas. It known in Western Palearctic birding circles as the place to search the snowline for high altitude Atlas species .  There was just one problem – no snow!  Undeterred I followed the example Hamid (Guyuin Birding Tours) and his group onto the flat expanse of short turf above the lake.

The approach to Ouakaimeden

Red-billed Chough was the most obvious species, whilst White Wagtail,  Meadow and Water Pipits fed on the ice melt.  Black Wheatears and Black Redstarts flitted around the boulders. 

An unfamilar high-pitched melodic call distracted me. This emanated from small flocks of  Atlas Horned Larks (Eremophilia (alpestris) atlas) flying low across the sward.  This distinctive taxon restricted to the Atlas Mountains of Morocco and Algeria is considered by some authorities as a full species. For more about Horned Lark taxonomy see HOLA Staines.

Atlas Horned Lark
Sister Species

I met Hamid who told me his group had seen African Crimson-winged Finch further up the valley.  A search of the area of boulders he directed me towards was not successful.  Next I turned my attention to similar habitat just beneath the road.  I did not immediately recognise the first birds I saw.  For some reason Rock Sparrow is not a species I have encountered often in my travels.

Rock Sparrow

As I tried to get better photographs of a Rock Sparrow when a bigger bird appeared in the viewfinder.  African Crimson-winged Finch (WP #734), the first of my four trip targets.  It is nearly forty years since I saw the sister species (Asian Crimson-winged Finch) in Eastern Turkey.  As such this striking bird felt very special.  After 15 minutes I left the flock of four to feed in peace and headed to the café where Hamid suggested for lunch.

African Crimson-winged Finch

After lunch I followed Hamid up the track beyond the last car park. About 1 km along the track we parked and scrambled up the slope to search some livestock enclosures. Hamid and his clients scored an Alpine Accentor which unfortunately I could not relocate.

Sheep and Goat shelters favoured by Rock Sparrowsand Alpine Accentor
The Descent

By now a day and half of travelling had caught up with me.  Consequently I decided to head back down the approach road to my hotel.  After about 3 km I stopped by some radio masts where Hamid’s party  had seen Levaillant’s Woodpecker. No luck with the woodpecker, but a Rock Bunting emerged from a nearby bush.  

A few km down the road I found a generous pull off next to some promising habitat.  A mixture of well spaced mature conifers and open areas that is favoured by the woodpeckers.  A calling Crossbill shared the upper branches with African Chaffinches. 

African Chaffinch

I played a little bit of “music” and immediately got a response!  Another burst and a superb male Levailliant’s Woodpecker (#735) burst into view and alighted on a bare bough.

Levailliant’s Woodpecker

The woodpecker disappeared as quickly as it arrived.  More than content with the day’s birding I continued the descent to the attractive wooded Ourika Valley.  Here I quickly found the Auberge de Maquis, a former boar hunter’s lodge turned cozy hotel where I would spend the night.

Auberge le Maquis

Content with Western Subalpine Warbler?

Of the many new species that I saw on my first visit to Scilly in October 1983 a Subalpine Warbler on St Agnes was perhaps the least memorable.  An unexciting first winter bird it just didn’t get the attention it deserved.  It was a was a what we referred to as a “padder’. An expected scarce migrant overshadowed by the deluge of ultra-rare, and very attractive, Nearctic species. 

One Divided by Three
Figure 1. Distribution of the five taxa of “Subalpine” Warbler proposed by Svensson (1). Western Subalpine Warbler which originally comprised inornata and iberiae has coaleced into a single taxon Curruca iberiae. Eastern Subalpine Warbler comprises two taxa Curruca cantillans cantillans and C.c albistriata. NB the zone of overlap in Northern Italy between Moltoni’s Warbler Curruca subalpina and Eastern Subalpine Warbler ssp cantillans

Fast forward 37 years. Proposals by Svensson 2013 (1) subsequently refined by Zucon et al 2020 (2) led the IOC split the Subalpine Warbler complex into three. These species are Eastern Subalpine Warbler (Curruca cantillans), Western Subalpine Warbler (Curruca iberiae) and Moltoni’s Warbler (Curruca subalpina).  I have been lucky enough to see and photograph all three species in their breeding ranges.  Unfortunately, identification of extralimital birds is only possible by sequencing a sample of DNA or by analysis of their vocalisations. I have seen at least half a dozen “Subalpine” Warblers in the UK . Yet I only the know the identity of one – the Moltoni’s Warbler that Dave Andrews found on Blakney Point in June 2018. Others such as the female Keith Regan and I saw on Fair Isle in June 2000 remain unassigned. At the time we simply did not know what to look for!

This year’s model!

On the morning of 29th October 2021 Adam Hutt found a first calendar year (1cy) Subalpine Warbler near Content at the North end of St Mary’s.  When I arrived in the early afternoon the bird, which had been showing well, headed off on a circuit of nearby hedges.   Fortunately I relocated it some nearby gorse, and managed a few record shots whilst attempting to direct other latecomers. That evening I posted these on Twitter

Figure 3 – Initial images of the Content “Subalpine” Warbler taken on the afternoon of 29th October 2021
Blinded by the light

The strong low sun accentuated the impression of a pale grey Curruca warbler with plain tertials and a black tail (Fig 3 A). Unexpectedly this prompted some online questions as to whether Ménétries’s Warbler (Curruca mystacea) had been excluded.  However, an overnight WhatsApp conversation with Yoav Perlman dispelled this idea. Other images (Fig 3 B and C) showed contrasting centres to the tertials a pro-“Subalpine” feature.  Luckily a series of images obtained by Matt Hobbs in different light showed the overall warmer tones and put thoughts of Ménétries’s to bed.

Once out of the Ménétries’s rabbithole most observers felt this was a Western Subalpine Warbler (WSW) based on call. A persistent single syllable tack.  Such vocalisation clearly excludes Moltoni’s Warbler and Eastern Subalpine Warbler (ESW) ssp albistrata.  Unfortunately, it is difficult to exclude nominate ESW ssp cantillans without making spectrograms to analyse the call (3).

Curiously, the dark adult tail, which prompted thoughts of Ménétries’s, held a clue to the bird’s specific identity.  I returned the next morning with a view to obtaining better images and sound recordings from which I could make a spectrogram.

A Trick of the Tail

My original image of the tail (Fig 3 D) left me a little confused as the outer tail feathers (T6/5) seemed shorter than the central tail feathers. Curiously whilst they exhibited an adult type pattern, T5 seemed to have too much white in it for a classic Western. This image and associated crop (inset) confirmed that impression.  

Figure 4 Image taken in better light on the morning of of 30th October showing the tail and closed wing to the Content “Subalpine” Warbler

When the possibility of Ménétries’s was raised reference was made to a tricky Curruca Warbler seen on Linosa, Italy in November 2012 (5).  Similarly this 1cy individual had replaced its spiky sandy coloured juvenile tail feathers with dark grey adult feathers.  Moreover T6 on the Linosa individual was wholly white and T5 had a small white apical notch. However, it did not call like a Moltoni’s. This led the Italian observers, who were very familiar with ESW ssp cantillans and Moltoni’s Warbler, to consider Ménétries’s.  However further analysis of their images did not support this conclusion and that in fact it was  a WSW ssp inornata.  It must be remembered that this form is now included in the the monotypic taxon Curruca iberiae (see Fig 1).

What about the Scilly bird?  In common with the Linosa individual dark adult tail feathers contrasted with the pale body.  Interestingly the white on T5 of the Content bird was somewhat different.  In particular the extensive white on the inner web, and a significant white outer margin created a “messy” apical notch (Fig 4). This is not an ESW type of tail pattern. However it is very close to that of an acceptable adult male Western trapped on Fair Isle on 9th May 2016 (5). Sadly this is not enough to be sure!  As an illustration a silent bird caught at Spurn in May 2020 exhibited a WSW type tail. Contrarily molecular analysis showed it to be an ESW ssp cantillans –  scary stuff (6).

Getting to the Point

The images of the Scilly bird also allowed evaluation of the bird’s wing structure (Fig 4 inset).  In essence they reveal a blunt wing-tip formed formed by 5/6 unevenly spaced primaries (Fig 4 inset). This is indicative of WSW.  By comparison ESW would have long narrow primary projection formed by 7/8 evenly spaced feathers (7).  At the present time this feature is not regarded as diagnostic.  However once Moltoni’s is excluded, on the basis of call, it appears to be strongly indicative of identity.

Changing Tack

Although the evidence of the tail pattern and wing structure is persuasive it is, according to current BBRC guidelines, insufficient to conclusively prove WSW.  Unfortunately, and despite best efforts, nobody could retrieve a faecal sample for molecular analysis.  The alternative was to obtain a sound recording/spectrogram.  I was fortunate to obtain a short (4 second) cut (listen here) and made a spectrogram.

Interrogating the Xeno-canto archive I found few recordings of calls definitely attributable to each taxon of interest. A problem compounded by XC using outdated taxonomy. I did not look for a Moltoni’s recording as it was clearly excluded by the call. In the end I identified three representative recordings for the comparative purposes.  Click on the links to listen:

XC369011Western Subalpine Warbler Curruca iberiae (Near Monpellier, France)

XC413121Eastern Subalpine Warbler Curruca cantillans cantillans (Tuscany, Italy)

XC652064Eastern Subalpine Warbler Curruca cantillans albistriata (Thessalia, Greece)

I selected a 4 second cut from each recording and prepared a spectrogram. To aid comparison these are presented using the same axes as for the Scilly bird.

Figure 5: Spectograms derived from the recorded calls of the Content “Subalpine” Warbler (Panel A); Western Subalpine Warbler – XC369011 (Panel B); Eastern Subalpine Warbler ssp cantillans – XC413121 (Panel C) and Eastern Subalpine Warbler ssp albistrata – XC652064 (Panel D)
Sounds right?

The Scilly bird certainly never gave the double call associated with ESW ssp albistrata (panel D). To my eyes the spectrogram of the Scilly individual (Panel A) exhibits the “dense vertical structure” of WSW calls (panel B) noted by Menzies et al (3).  Both spectrograms reflect the hard tack uttered by the Scilly bird and XC369011.  To my ears this is quite different to the softer “t’chek” note of ESW ssp cantillans (XC413121). This difference is reflected in the spectrogram which appears to be more “open”.  In other words it is less dense and possible to pick out individual harmonics.  Note also the range of frequencies represented is somewhat less that those present in the Scilly bird and XC369011. Interestingly spectrograms of the calls of the Linosa bird (4) appear consistent with its identification as WSW.

Summary

In conclusion a 1cy Subalpine Warbler sensu lato was present on St Mary’s Isles of Scilly between 29th October and 3rd November 2021.  DLSR images clearly showed an adult type tail pattern coupled with a short blunt primary projection.  Generally these are features associated with Western Subalpine Warbler.  Analysis of a recording of the call appears to support the identification of this bird as a Western Subalpine Warbler.

References
  1. Svensson, L. (2013) A taxonomic revision of the Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans Bulletin of the British Ornithologists’ Club 113:240–248
  2. Zuccon, D., et al (2020). Type specimens matter: new insights on the systematics, taxonomy and nomenclature of the subalpine warbler (Sylvia cantillans) complex. Zoological Journal of the Linnean Society 190: 314-341 doi:10.1093/zoolinnean/zlz169

  3. Menzie, S., Gil-Velasco, M., & Collinson, J. M. (2015). First genetically confirmed Eastern Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans for Sweden. Ornis Svecica, 25(1–2): 40–44. doi.org/10.34080/os.v25.22554

  4. Corso A. et al A Subalpine Trap: an interesting “cantillans” makes things hard! in Birding Frontiers ed Martin Garner

  5. Subalpine Warblers on Fair Isle  downloaded from Fair Isle Bird Observatory and Guesthouse

  6. Eastern Subalpine Warbler in Spurn Bird Observatory News 8th August 2020
  7. Corso A. et al (2021) Identifying Western Subalpine Warbler and Eastern Subalpine Warbler by primary projection Dutch Birding 43: 45-50

An Unexpected Journey

A breeding plumage Bar-tailed Godwit on a local marsh in late April is one of the species inland birdwatchers dream about.  Not a rarity, but scarce away from the coast a few turn up each spring as they cross the country en-route from West Africa to the high Arctic.  One recently graced West Earlham marsh just a couple of miles from my house in Norwich.  Normally I would never have to force myself to leave the house to see such a special bird.  The morning of Sunday 18th April was diferent. It was less than 48 hours after I had undergone a diagnostic procedure under general anaesthetic. I needed to go for the Godwit as my next tentative step on an unwanted and unexpected journey. One that began nearly four years ago.

Episode One – July 2017

I had booked a few days leave to go on a wildlife watching trip to Scotland with James Lowen, Will Soar and Ian Robinson. Two days before departure my pee turned strawberry red! The need for urgent medical attention caused me to withdraw from what was a spectacularly successful trip. The gross hematuria (visable blood in urine) cleared up after six days. Less than two weeks after referral by my GP I attended the Hematuria Clinic at the Norfolk and Norwich University Hospital. Despite exhaustive investigation, the consultant urologist could not find the cause and discharged me. After the investigation Ingrid and I relaxed with a trip to North Norfolk. Restored by coffee and cake at the Artemis cafe in Cley we moved to Holt Country Park. Here we enjoyed a fine range of butterflies and both Hummingbird and my first Broad-bordered Bee Hawk Moth.

Broad-bordered Bee Hawk Moth (Hemaris fuciformis. – Holt County Park, Norfolk August 2017
Episode Two – April 2018

Nine months later I was recently returned from a successful trip to Western Sahara with Graham Clarke.  Most days I was travelling to Carleton Marshes SWT reserve trying to see the American Bittern.  I experienced exactly the same symptoms, was again referred to the two week pathway and discharged without diagnosis.  The consultant explained that I might be one of those rare individuals who bled episodically. Much in the same way that some folk are prone to nosebleeds.  Hmm… – next time how do I know if that is true or it is something sinister? 

American Bittern (Botaurus lentiginosus) – Carlton Marshes SWT Suffolk, April 2018
Episode Three – December 2020

Ingrid had accepted a job offer in Truro and I had made the decision to leave UEA and move to Cornwall. In early December 2020 and despite the complexities of the tier system we visited Truro. After a good look around and viewing a couple of properties we brought Kat back from University for Xmas. We both felt all set for our next adventure. Except just before Xmas the hematuria came back. Same presentation – six days of bright red pee and it cleared up. What should I do? Stick or twist? Am I just one of those unlucky individuals with unexplained episodic bleeding? My rational head ruled and I phoned the GP. They quickly excluded a UTI and sought guidance from the NNUH urologists. The urologists did not hesitate–my last investigation was 2.5 years old and they wanted me back PDQ.

Next Steps

A telephone consultation advised, within the constraints of a post-Xmas Covid surge, another CT scan and a blood test.  Both were completed by late-February just before I left UEA after 30 years and moved Ingrid to Truro. Two weeks after I returned from Cornwall I received an unexpected phone call to arrange a date for a urological day procedure. “Yes sure but I don’t know anything about this”.  The consultant’s letter arrived an hour later.  The CT scan had revealed an abnormal area in my renal pelvis (where the urinary tract joins the kidney) The consultant wanted to perform a diagnostic uretoscopy +/- biopsy for 16th April at the James Paget Hospital in Great Yarmouth.

I  put the investigation out of my mind when I went back down to Cornwall at the end of March.  I brought Ingrid back to Norwich for the Easter weekend and her second Covid jab.   It was a short lived period of calm. On Easter Monday I drove Ingrid to Reading Station and we stopped off to see my Mother and explain the situation.

A diversionary yomp around Happisburgh with Graham on Saturday 10th April brought my first Wheatears of the Spring.  The next day further distraction came in the form of a charming Little Ringed Plover on West Earlham.

Outcome of the Investigation

I was back out East on Tuesday 13th for pre-operative observations and a covid swab.  After this I self-isolated for three days until John Geeson kindly drove me out to the James Paget on 16th for my 7am admission.  The procedure, done under general anaesthetic, was successful. When I came around the surgeon came to speak to me. He was able to inspect my bladdder/left urether – all clear.  However when he reached the renal pelvis he found a tumour. This appeared to be a Transitional Cell Carcinoma (TCC) which he biopsied for the purpose of grading. The treatment – radical nephroureterectomy.  This is the removal of the kidney, entire ureter, and a small piece of bladder where the ureter and bladder connect.

John collected me that afternoon and took me home where my son Hugh was waiting for me.  That evening I shared my cancer diagnosis with my family and some via video calls.  Although difficult I was grateful for modern technology so that I could see the love and support in their faces.  

TCC in the renal pelvis (also called upper tract urothelial carcinoma – UTUC) accounts for ca 5% of kidney cancers.  The incidence is about 2:100,000. It affects twice as many males as females and the average age of diagnosis is late sixties.  For anybody wishing to understand a little more please look at the pages produced by Macmillan.

Hello I’m still here!

The next day is a bit of a blur as the anasthetic wore off and I got used to the discomfort of a urethal stent.  After 24 hours I could remove the compression socks and have a shower.  News of the Godwit broke that evening and when it was present early the next day there was no stopping me.  The bird showed well close to the bund.  As I photographed it in the warm sun I chatted to many passing dog walkers who showed an interest.  Most importantly it reaffirmed to me that whatever the future holds I will not become Nick the cancer patient.  I am Nick the academic/biochemist/birder/moth-er/photographer, Ingrid’s husband and Hugh & Kat’s father.

The pace quickens..

On discharge the surgeon told me that the pathology report would be 10-14 days.  This indicative timeline was confirmed when the stent was removed on Tuesday 20th.  Much more comfortable I received a call from or estate agent. An acceptable offer for our house was progress but represented more uncertainty.  Never mind we had a holiday on Scilly to look forward to and the pathology results would be available on my return?

In fact the pathology report was with the consultant within a week.  A treatment plan was agreed on Monday 26th and I met the consultant on Wednesday 28th.  His feedback was a low-grade tumour (TCC) confined to the renal pelvis. Treatment would be laproscopic (keyhole) nephrouterectomy that would take place asap after two further tests. Blood was taken there and then by a nurse.  A CT scan, we agreed, would wait until after Scilly. Also huge kudos to my GP who got me a second Covid jab at very short notice.

I drove to Truro the next day (29/4) and the day after (30/4) I had a phone call with one of the specialist nurses.  She was very reassuring and walked me through the diagnosis, surgical procedure and recovery.  The NNUH called at the end of our holiday (7/5) to give me the date for surgery (18/5).  Since returning to Norwich I have been busy with appointments.  I have also caught up with friends and former colleagues whose perspective, humour and support has been invaluable.  

Temptation

You couldn’t make this up, but as I write this (16/5) there is a Caspian Tern on UEA Broad. An impressive find by Dave Andrews and far rarer in the UK than the Godwit. Nick the birder wants to drive 2km and see it hawk over the lake that was part of my life for 30 years. However I am in strict, post covid-swab, self-isolation. Breaking this could endanger the surgical team  and/or risk cancellation.  So Nick the cancer patient must stay put and enjoy it vicariously.  Severely gripped off Nick the birder is frustrated he did not see it from the bedroom when it flew to Whitlingham and back! 

The Eagles are Coming!

The title deliberately references the sub-title of JRR Tolkien’s The Hobbit.  A framed print of the original book cover hangs in our bedroom.  A memento of a awesome Oxford weekend in 2018 shortly after Episode Two, when Ingrid and I saw David Byrne’s remarkable American Utopia.  Like the hobbit Bilbo I find myself on an unexpected journey. 

In both The Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings the great eagles intervene to rescue the main protagonists when all appears lost. In real life there are no such miracles. Surgery is intended to be curative – we shall see.  Whatever the outcome, I must recover from and adapt to life with one kidney.  Other challenges may lie ahead, but what Tolkien’s eagles do symbolise is strength and hope.  Qualities that I will need in abundance in the coming weeks. 

My plan for my first post work autumn was to split my time between Batumi and Scilly.  The first looks unlikely and the second in the balance.  However, if Nick the birder returns to Georgia one future September when the eagles are coming through something will have gone right.  And that is something to hold on to.

Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus) – Batumi, Georgia, August 2019

A Scilly Spring Week

Despite the fact that I first went to Scilly in October 1983, I only ever spent one day on the islands in the Spring. A hugely enjoyable Great Blue Heron twitch to Bryher with James Lowen, David Bradnum and Yoav Perlman in April 2015.  So when Ingrid and I had an option on our usual cottage on St Mary’s for the first week in May we grabbed it.  As May approached and my need for urgent medical treatment became apparent we were grateful for our first Scilly spring.

The week started well.  I stepped off the quay at lunchtime on 1st May and one of two long-staying Iceland Gulls flew over my head.  After a cup of coffee and a pasty at our digs in Thomas Porth I set forth.  Crossing Lower Moors the recently arrived Purple Heron flew from town in the direction of Porthellick.  Two Scilly “ticks” in 90 minutes was just what I needed. And when I reached the pumping station the Woodchat Shrike found that morning was showing well although too distant for photos.  After the shrike I carried on with one my favourite walks. The coastal path from Old Town to Porthhellick via Giants Castle and Salakee Down was simply glorious.

Looking towards Porthellick from Salakee Down

I spent too long on the East side of Porthellick not seeing the Red-throated Pipit. Predictably I left 10 mins before it turned up.  I was more succesful the following afternoon after a lovely lunch at Juliets.  The pipit came with the added bonus of a long conversation with Bob Flood.

After the wash out that was Bank Holiday Monday the rest of the week followed a predictable pattern.  I walked 10+ miles each day in the cold northerly winds seeing very few migrants. All very frustrating, but not without interest.  For instance the pair of Blackcap that breed in the scrub around Watermill Cove but feed on the wrack.  And the huge summer breeding population of Linnets that is gone by the time I turn up in October.

Mid-week Ingrid and I took a trip to Bryher and enjoyed a nice walk around Samson Hill before lunch at Fraggle Rock. En route I turned up a rather smart, but nervous Blue-headed Wagtail on the pool.

Blue-headed Wagtail, Bryher

One thing that surprised me was the number of Whimbrel still staging in the islands.  I assume their northward progress was impeded by the constant northerlies.  Their choice of habitat appeared quite catholic – fields, rocky shore, beaches and freshwater pools

Whimbrel, Porthminnack, St Mary’s

Our Scilly spring week was over all too soon and we left on Friday 7th ahead of another storm.   Yet once again the islands had offered healing and my head was in a much better place to deal with my diagnosis and planned treatment.

Sunset over Samson from Little Avalon

Migrant Moths on Penninis

Along with it’s reputation for rare migrant birds, Scilly is also an excellent place to trap migrant moths.  Penninis Head is the most southerly point on St Mary’s and the penninsular runs North to South.  Sheltered spots amongst boulders and dry stone walls are ideal sites to trap recent arrivals from Iberia and North Africa.  With our accomodation being at the base of the headland I felt there was a good chance of success.

A brace of Radford’s

The first night of our stay (17th October) I set my battery operated actinic trap in the grounds of our lodge. The result was disappointing; lots of Feathered Ranunculus and Lunar Underwings, but little else. Fortunately staying on Penninis Farm gave access to some fields on the West side of the headland. Two nights later I placed the trap in a corner of a rough pasture lfacing St Agnes.

Radford’s Flame Shoulder (Ochlopleura leucogaster) is a Southern European species first recorded in the UK in 1983 (Walberton, West Sussex). There were about 100 records over the next 30 years with most occuring in October. Since 2016 it appear to have become more regular with 2020 being an especially good year all along the South coast. And insects have even appeared as far North as Essex.

I retrieved the trap the following morning and took it back to our lodge. Amongst good numbers of the usual suspects there was a small selection of immigrant or likely immigrant species. This included Angle Shades, Turnip and Whitespeck and two pristine Radford’s Flame Shoulder.

Radford’s Flame Shoulder (Ochlopleura leucogaster). The concolourous link between the pale costal streak and light collar reliably differentiates this species from Flame Shoulder (Ochlopleura plecta). The latter is a resident species that flies earlier in the year. This feature is best seen by photographing as resting moth side on as suggested by Chris Lewis on his British Lepidoptera website.

Other migrants were familar from my first foray into migramt moth trapping on The Lizard in September 2019. These included one each of Scarce Bordered Straw, Delicate and Dark Swoardgrass. 

Scarce Bordered Straw Helicoverpa armigera
The Delicate Mythimna vitellina
Dark Sword-grass Agrotis ipsilon
Micros not migrants

Two nights later I tried the same location again. No migrants and a more autumnal feel to the local moths. But, to my suprise, there were two micro-moths in the trap; Crocidosema plebejana and Scrobipalpa ocellatella. Both are rocky shore specialists, confined to the South and South-West, that fly late in the season.

Crocidosema plebejana (Southern Bell)
Scrobipalpa ocellatella (Beet Moth)

Given that I only trapped for three nights I was very pleased with the outcome.  On three counts.  Firstly the nice mixture of migrant moths and local species, like Feathered Ranunculus, that I don’t see at home.  Secondly catching some micros was a bonus – I had hardly caught any since late August,  Finally it was excellent to see my battery operated actinic get such good results.  Small portable traps give flexibility in a way that mains operated traps with MV bulbs do not.  A useful lesson for the future.

 

Lockdown Moth-trapping

By the time the UK lockdown started on 23rd March I was already working from home. University teaching had gone on-line and my last physical seminar was on the afternoon of Friday 13th March. During an extended period of home working during the lockdown moth-trapping would be an important part of my routine.

A slow start…

That night I ran my actinic Heath Trap and caught just five moths of three species (5/3). However on the wall behind the trap was a tiny pale grey micro-moth. It reminded me of the Lichen Button (Acleris literana)that I had seen on Wiveton church in late January. Not surprising as it was another species of Acleris; either logiana (Grey Birch Button) or kochiella (Elm Button). Based on the images both Keith Kerr and Dave Appleton favoured logiana an identifcation later confirmed under Keith’s microscope. A new species for me, TG20D and only the sixth to be recorded in the TG20 hectad.

Lichen Button (Acleris. literana) – 26th January 2020
Acleris logiana (Grey Birch Button) – 14th March 2020

Before the restrictions tightened I took a short trip down the A11 to Roudham Services.  The layby is surrounded by woodland and the walls of the well lit toilet block are attractive to moths. In past years this has been a reliable site for two early spring species; Small Brindled Beauty and Yellow Horned.  The first is quite scarce, but Yellow Horned is quite common in suitable habitat (birch).  I quickly found one and relocated it to Eaton for 24 hours for a photoshoot.  

Yellow Horned (Achlya flavicornis)- March 13th 2020

The next two and a half weeks were very cool and trapping was hard going.  I was catching 3/4 of the common  Hebrew Character, Common and Small Quakers and Clouded Drab most nights.  Occasional relief came in the form of the odd Twin-spotted Quaker and Early Grey.

Twin-spotted Quaker (Anorthoa munda) – 17th March 2020
Early Grey (Xylocampa areola) – 4th April 2020
A change in the weather

The weekend of 4th/5th of April was much warmer.  Multiple reports of male Emperor Moths coming to pheromone lures on Saturday made sure I gave it a go on Sunday.  Twenty minutes after deployment an Emperor buzzed my lure, but some inept netcraft saw him disappear over the back fence.  Never mind!  A few minutes later he returned and I didn’t mess up my second chance.  Whilst he cooled off in the fridge a second individual briefly inspected the lure.  My first multiple siting after singles in 2017 and 2019.

Emperor Moth (Saturnia pavonia) – 5th April 2020

The warmer weather encouraged me to switch to the bigger and more poweful MV trap. I was not disappointed with 17/10 including four new species for the year (nfy): Nut-tree Tussock, Herald, Double-striped Pug and Oak Nycteoline. Three of these species would have recently emerged

Nut-tree Tussock (Colocasia coryli) – 5th April 2020
Herald (Scoliopteryx libatrix) – 5th April 2020

The next couple of nights were quieter with only Early Thorn the only nfy. However as it warmed up ahead of the Easter weekend numbers picked with 23/13 overnight on 8th April. Engrailed plus Brindled Pug and Beauty were all expected nfy.

Brindled Beauty (Lycia hirtaria) – 8th April 2020
Brindled Pug (Eupithecia abbreviata)

Not expected was another pale grey moth on the wall behind the trap. This was a new species for me; Early Tooth-striped. The first record for TG20D tetrad and just the third ever recorded in TG20.

Early Tooth-striped (Trichopteryx carpinata) – 8th April 2020
Who needs Easter eggs?

The catch on Easter Saturday morning was small although there were three noteworthy moths. None of this trio were in the trap, but were on the house wall and other nearby surfaces. A crisp olive and lemon Frosted Green was just the second for the garden. It was certainly much better looking than last year’s rather worn individual. In comparison Streamer is a regular garden moth in mid-April, but definitely one of my favourites. The extensive mauve suffusion is shown off to good effect on this lovely fresh individual.

Frosted Green (Polyploca ridens) – 10th April 2020
Streamer (Anticlea derivata) – 10th April 2020

However pride of place went to another new species for me; Lunar Marbled Brown.  This species is bigger than I had expected with a series of wavy crossbands in muted cream and brown tones.  The black “lunar” mark is towards the top edge of the broad cream band.

Lunar Marbled Brown (Drymonia ruficornis) – 10th April 2020

After dark on the evening of 11th April there was a lot of activity in the mild still conditions. The next morning did not disappoint and there was a fine array of moths spread across the house wall and in the trap. There were high counts of Brindled Beauty and Streamer (4 each) and 7 nfy including, Least Black Arches, Muslin Moth. Scorched Carpet Swallow Prominent and my second garden Mullein.

Least Black Arches (Nola confusalis) -11th April 2020
Mullein (Cucullia verbasci) – 11th April 2020

The two nfy micro-moths were Many-plume and Bee Moth. A couple of tiny black and white micro-moths looked more interesting. I identifed them with the aid of my photographs as Mompha subbistrigella (Garden Mompha). Although this species is new to me it is not uncommon and quite well recorded around Norwich.

Mompha subbistrigella (Garden Mompha) – April 11th 2020

Unfortunately wind and rain on the night of 12th April brought this enjoyable period of lockdown moth-trapping to an end. That said although the current restrictions are set to continue this cool spell will soon pass. And as we appraoch May there will be be many more good nights  as numbers and diversity increase.